Tough Decision

Making the decision to end the trip was very difficult and there is a sense of failure. However, this is the wrong time of year to do this trip and our route is known as "the thorny path".

We found a wonderful Hurricane Hole to leave the boat. Really, the mooring place is named Hurricane Hole. The moorings appear to be in good condition, the basin is really well protected and the proprietor, Wendel, aka Little Toot, a wonderful, helpful fellow. He has agreed to keep the boat aired out and the motors exercised regularly. And the price is reasonable.

As Hurricane Hole is on Stocking Island, it is necessary to get a water taxi to the government dock. Elvis, the driver, arranged a taxi to the airport for me. All the cabs are connected via VHF radio and I would hazard that as much business here is done with VHF as with cellphone.

There are several places in Georgetown where one can get wireless internet connection. For $15 a month you can get a signal on your boat. I went to Eddie's, a very Caribbean establishment where I could do all my business for free as long as I made a purchase. And why wouldn't I when the local Sands beer is so good and the fried chicken is just as it should be? $7.50 all in. Not cheap but not too bad, either. And if you like the sound of loud locals having a good time, the ambiance is great.

Bill Penistan's Article in Georgian Bay Today

Bill's article on the life of a charter boat skipper is included in the Spring issue of Georgian Bay Today. 

"The sun creeps past the cabin’s port light curtains as a distant loon cries an eerie wail. There is a chill in the air and I dread crawling out of my warm sleeping bag.  I perceive nearby movement then the wafts of fresh coffee fumes entice me to open my eyes. There is indeed a fresh pot brewing on the stove.  A friendly smile invites me to the first cup. Promises of hot, rich, black nectar. Life is good. 

A few sips, a dry swimsuit and a quick splash into the clear fresh waters of Georgian Bay and the sleeps are chased away. Toweling off and heading below again, I am greeted by happy, relaxed charter guests.

Such are the good times of being a charter boat captain.  I never know for sure what to expect when I meet a new crew, but then again, nor do they!.. "

Get a subscription to this great magazine to read the entire article.

Trade Wind Frustrations

The wind continues to blow from the wrong direction as another cold front goes over. In a few days the real trade winds should settle back in but that means 15 to 20 knots from the southeast - just the direction we need to go to get to the Turks and Caicos for a hop across to the Dominican. This is open ocean with expected 7 to 8 foot seas on top of a north swell.

The owner of Seaquel, Malcolm, needs to get back to St. Lucia by Monday for work. I need to get back to Ontario soon but I am not as committed time wise. The big concern is that we could head off to Rum Cay or some place along the way and get stuck again, with no place to leave the boat and no airport. So it looks as though we should leave the boat here in Georgetown and head for home. A delivery crew will need to be arranged to deliver Seaquel possibly in May when the trades settle down. I would love to finish this trip but I will be pretty busy then getting Little Wing ready for the summer season on Lake Huron.

The Exumas

The trip from Nassau to Georgetown, Great Exuma Island, was a fantastic tease. One hundred twenty nautical miles of almost smooth, crystal clear water of the most amazing azure variations. Dozens of low sand islands, almost devoid of life forms other than cruisers. The strip of cays, known as the Exumas, separate Exuma Bank from the Atlantic Ocean and effectively break the ever present ocean swells. We charged down most of the chain at 12 to 14 knots with only about 4 feet under the bottom. Terrifying to a sailor trained in the North Channel where the bottom goes straight up and down in less than a heartbeat. The passage certainly invoked a desire to come back for a winter to explore and experience this tropical coastal wilderness - the Bahamian out islands.
is full of boats. I am told however that a couple of weeks ago it was far more crowded. A mass exodus of about 400 a day are leaving for destinations north. On the way south we came across quite a few going the other way. It was almost like driving the Hwy. 400 on a holiday weekend! Other than the boats, there is very little here. A Scotiabank and RBC are central to the town. Being Easter Sunday and Monday, absolutely nothing was open, including the marina washrooms!

Dockage here is relatively cheap - under $50 a day as opposed to Chub Cay at $140! However, the facilities are commensurate with the price.

So now we wait out another cold front with the associated norther. The wind has gone to NW 25 knots so the open ocean will be nasty. As soon as this passes we will be heading lickety split for Rum Cay, Mayaguana and the Turks and Caicos. Because this trip has taken so much longer than expected, we are thinking of leaving the boat in Luperon, Dominican Republic until a delivery skipper can be arranged to finish the trip possibly in May after the trade winds have settled.

Important thoughts on voyaging by trawler - 1. Wave conditions determine the speed of travel and possibility of travel
- 2. The fuel range is everything. It is nice to travel at 14 knots but one must refuel every 150 miles or so. Given perfect conditions, one is still limited by range and NEVER plan landfall in the islands after sunset.

Arrival in Chub Cay, Bahamas

Hello Everyone. We're making slow progress. Passages so far have been a bit rough. Nice for a sailboat though! Amazing. We just went 53 miles at almost 10 knots in about 7 feet of water. Terrifying!!!!!!!! We’re currently in Chub Cay, Bahamas. Chub Cay lies at the south end of the Berry Island chain. We are close to the "Tongue of the Ocean," an area known for big-game fishing and scuba diving. In 1992, Chub Cay was destroyed by Hurricane Andrew and had to be completely rebuilt.

This morning we’re heading for Nassau located on New Providence Island. Nassau, the Capital of the Bahamas, is known for its old forts, pastel-colored buildings and fabulous hotels. We are so weather dependent but with no weather receiver radio. Frustrating! We still have to get across the big water to Dominican and then Puerto Rico. Hope to be in communication soon!

St. Lucia Delivery

Captain Bill will be away from March 15 to at least the end of the month. He has been asked to deliver a Mainship 39 trawler from Florida to St. Lucia. Crewing will be the owner, Malcolm and his son, Kyle. This is a challenging voyage of over 1 500 nautical miles against the trade winds and ocean currents. The proposed route will take us through the Bahamas, Abacos, Exumas, Turks and Caicos, Dominican Republic, Virgin Islands, St. Maarten, Dominica and finally St. Lucia.
At the moment we are sitting at Hollywood Marina, Fort Lauderdale, where we have been wind bound since the 15th. Thursday should give us a break in the weather to charge across the Gulf Stream and onto the Bahama Banks. This leg must be made when the wind is south of east, blowing less than 15 knots and waves under 1 meter. Otherwise, the Gulf Stream is extremely rough and dangerous.

While waiting for the weather window we have purchased charts, cruising guides, a larger anchor and chain, provisioned the boat and plotted the routes. Next post will likely be from Nassau.